We left Varanassi on the train yesterday morning, and had our first experience of traveling second class sleeper. For those of you who don't know what this means, first class is divided into: AC chair, 1 tier AC, 2 tier AC (tiers are berths, or beds, layered 1-3 levels high), and 3 tier AC. Next comes second class sleeper and this is the lowest class, aside from second class chair which is not so common.
It was a short train ride, only 3 hours, so it was a terrific opportunity to travel "local style" and have a more rootsy Indian experience. The first thing we noticed was that, naturally, it was less clean and cozy than first class, and the berths we less cushy... but we expected that. The second thing we found out, was that although we had each paid for a full berth, 2 more people ended up sitting on them so you weren't able to lay down. I am still a bit confused as to how this works out... I'd like to know how we can pay for only one ticket and then share a seat like the locals seem to! But we happily shared our space with other riders and their luggage, embracing the "lack of logic" which is a way of life here.
I always love traveling at this local level, and having the opportunity to enjoy these intimate cultural experiences. We both had fun checking out (and sometimes tasting) the diverse and unusual train fare, which were brought by a constant stream of food peddlers. Every few minutes you would hear: "Tomato soup!", "Vegetable Biryani!", "Lassi!". We let the Chai Walla refill us as he passed back and forth...sipping our tea and taking in all the flavors of India.
When we arrived in Gaya, which is about 25km (an hour in an auto rickshaw) from Bodhgaya, we were met with hustle and bustle and some unexpected intensity. It was surprisingly more like what I expected to be met with in Varanassi. More begging, pushing, and aggressive male energy. Luckily, we were quickly swooped up by a rickshaw driver, who whisked us out of this loud city, and brought us safely to Bodhgaya. Bodhgaya is like a breath of fresh air. Literally. Trash burning is probably the number one reason for country-wide air pollution, and you never really get away from the smell of burning plastic. It is here, in Bodhgaya as well, but the town is much smaller and the air quality is better...slightly. The biggest difference, is the overall energy of being in a Buddhist town, full of temples and grassy parks. The horn honking is on a smaller scale, and a bit further away; the people are more peaceful; and there is an overall sense of open-kindness that can be typical of those who practice Buddhism. Bodhgaya is the biggest Buddhist pilgrimage place in the world, being the home of the famous Bodhi tree where the Buddha became enlightened. It is by no means crowded with people, however, and most pilgrims are monks from around the world. There are temples and monasteries from perhaps every country whose main religion is Buddhism, including: Thai, Tibetan, Bangladesh, Butanese, Japanese, and lots more.
We found a hotel we liked right away, and have decided to stay here for the duration of our time. It's down a side street, a bit quieter than the man road; across from a nice park with a large pond that kids swim in and paddle boats around; and right next door to an international meditation center. The owners of the hotel are sweet and gentle Buddhists, and we feel quite comfortable here. Being in the city of Varanassi had its many merits... but it's nice to have a little reprieve. Yes, definitely happy to be in this auspicious little town....
It was a short train ride, only 3 hours, so it was a terrific opportunity to travel "local style" and have a more rootsy Indian experience. The first thing we noticed was that, naturally, it was less clean and cozy than first class, and the berths we less cushy... but we expected that. The second thing we found out, was that although we had each paid for a full berth, 2 more people ended up sitting on them so you weren't able to lay down. I am still a bit confused as to how this works out... I'd like to know how we can pay for only one ticket and then share a seat like the locals seem to! But we happily shared our space with other riders and their luggage, embracing the "lack of logic" which is a way of life here.
I always love traveling at this local level, and having the opportunity to enjoy these intimate cultural experiences. We both had fun checking out (and sometimes tasting) the diverse and unusual train fare, which were brought by a constant stream of food peddlers. Every few minutes you would hear: "Tomato soup!", "Vegetable Biryani!", "Lassi!". We let the Chai Walla refill us as he passed back and forth...sipping our tea and taking in all the flavors of India.
When we arrived in Gaya, which is about 25km (an hour in an auto rickshaw) from Bodhgaya, we were met with hustle and bustle and some unexpected intensity. It was surprisingly more like what I expected to be met with in Varanassi. More begging, pushing, and aggressive male energy. Luckily, we were quickly swooped up by a rickshaw driver, who whisked us out of this loud city, and brought us safely to Bodhgaya. Bodhgaya is like a breath of fresh air. Literally. Trash burning is probably the number one reason for country-wide air pollution, and you never really get away from the smell of burning plastic. It is here, in Bodhgaya as well, but the town is much smaller and the air quality is better...slightly. The biggest difference, is the overall energy of being in a Buddhist town, full of temples and grassy parks. The horn honking is on a smaller scale, and a bit further away; the people are more peaceful; and there is an overall sense of open-kindness that can be typical of those who practice Buddhism. Bodhgaya is the biggest Buddhist pilgrimage place in the world, being the home of the famous Bodhi tree where the Buddha became enlightened. It is by no means crowded with people, however, and most pilgrims are monks from around the world. There are temples and monasteries from perhaps every country whose main religion is Buddhism, including: Thai, Tibetan, Bangladesh, Butanese, Japanese, and lots more.
We found a hotel we liked right away, and have decided to stay here for the duration of our time. It's down a side street, a bit quieter than the man road; across from a nice park with a large pond that kids swim in and paddle boats around; and right next door to an international meditation center. The owners of the hotel are sweet and gentle Buddhists, and we feel quite comfortable here. Being in the city of Varanassi had its many merits... but it's nice to have a little reprieve. Yes, definitely happy to be in this auspicious little town....
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