Over the course of the last three days, the intensity of Varanassi is beginning to set in. What began as novel, slowly is becoming louder and more difficult to breathe. I still love Varanassi, it's very powerful in all it's intense ways. It naturally brings a lot up in a person; mentally, phisically, emotionally and of course spiritually. It's a deeply useful opportunity for One who is willing to meet it and FEEL it.
Two days ago, we hopped in an auto rickshaw (same as a tuk tuk- they use the terms interchangeably). We hired him for the day and had him take us around to 4 Hindu temples: Shiva Temple ; Durga Temple; Monkey Temple (a temple devoted to Hanuman whose form was half human and half monkey... Ironically, there are monkeys all around the temple); and Tulasi Manas Temple. The Hanuman Temple was especially nice, and the "no photography" rule helped to keep the ambiance very sacred and focused. There were many there to sing and pray, and it was a deeply devotional place of worship (Hanuman being the deity of devotion).
On our way to the temples we enjoyed our first auto rickshaw accident. So common, it hardly phases the drivers or passersby... and most travelers have experienced a multitude of them. The rickshaws don't go very fast, so an accident isn't such a big deal to the rider, but the Tuk Tuks are generally quite beat up. The hierarchy of the road is: you can run over pedestrians if they are in the way; bicycles are second, and the pedestrians should watch out for bicycles veering to get away from scooters. Scooters are subservient to the tuk tuks, which are by far the most aggressive vehicles... And though they are extremely aware of their position as "above these "lesser" modes of transport", they seem to disregard the fact that they are NOT above higher vehicles. The cars are not as common as the other vehicles, and neither are buses, which are at the top of the "fuel" chain. This is a blessing, as the law says that if a vehicle lower on the hierarchy is in the way, there is no problem creaming it if it doesn't move for a bigger vehicle... Tuk Tuks are not exactly defensive drivers. There is, however, one level of the hierarchy in which every vehicle, bicycle, and pedestrian will diligently avoid.... The highest of the pyramid and King of the road.... The cow! Needless to say, we were fine. It was more amusing than anything.
Yesterday, we had planned a day trip but were foiled when we ended up spending the morning and early afternoon at the travel agent's office. We are not able to do our own train booking as you must be an Indian resident to do this. In some ways it's good as it gives jobs to Indians and makes the process much easier for us. The trains book up 2-4 weeks in advance, so it is good to plan ahead and book early, which is difficult to do when you want a spontaneous journey. The travel agents, however, get a certain number of emergency tickets which they can give to tourists after the train fills up, at an extra charge, of course. Our coming trip in a few weeks to Dharamsala will be a very long journey, and it took hours to sort out train times; ticket availability; and booking. We just kept breathing through it with as much patience as we could muster.
The afternoon we spent wandering through the back alleyways of the Main Ghat, looking at crafts; snacking on dosas; and finally locating the traveler famous "Blue Lassi"... Home of Varanassi's best Lassi. A Lassi is a blend of local made yogurt and fruit. These were extra special...chocolate, banana, coconut... Pomogranite and saffron on top. We went back last night for a second.... Don't tell anyone.
Today, we woke up at 5am, and hopped in a row boat with a sweet and honest man. He took us for a sunrise cruise on the Ganga. Varanassi was born again this morning, in all her rich glory. Bathers littered the ghats, doing their morning wash-up along with their pujas and prayers. Many began their days early with hours of clothes washing. A constant stream of chanting and singing could be heard as well as the laughter of young girls playing in the river. The ashes from the previous day and nights sacred burning of the bodies were pushed into a large pile, and then shoveled into the river... The last remains of the dreams, of the traveling pilgrims come to die in this Holy city.
The close up view of the river gave us the opportunity to see, touch and smell the extreme pollution of this sacred river. Trash, plastic, sewage, dead animals and dead bodies, all find their way to the stagnant waters of the lower Ganges. Here I had to muster the courage to touch it, while locals had no problems swimming, brushing their teeth, and even drinking it! Ack! Ben and I felt the tremendous amount of sorrow for the desecration of such an extraordinary gift of nature. We also felt immense gratitude for the beautiful, clean rivers of the north west... The blessing of living within such relatively preserved wildlife. Infinite gratitude for Mother Nature, may she return to balance and harmony.
This afternoon we went to Sarnath. Fifteen km away from Varanassi, It's the town where the first Buddha gave his very first sermon, and thus the birthplace of Buddhism. We stood in the place of that first sermon and felt the emanating of sweet energy. Inside the temple we sat for awhile, and it was such a peaceful reprieve from the loud, bustling city of Varanssi.
Tomorrow we leave Varanassi on a relatively short journey to Bodhgaya- only 4 hours away. This is the town where Buddha sat under the famous Bodhi tree to become enlightened. We will be there for a few days and then we start a two week permaculture course at a monastery. We will be working with some local community members of Bodhgaya to create a sustainable, no waste project using local and organic means.
Varanassi has been many things.... Rich and beautiful; intense and awful. I love it, I hate it.... Depends on where I am coming from. In the end... It's perfect.
Two days ago, we hopped in an auto rickshaw (same as a tuk tuk- they use the terms interchangeably). We hired him for the day and had him take us around to 4 Hindu temples: Shiva Temple ; Durga Temple; Monkey Temple (a temple devoted to Hanuman whose form was half human and half monkey... Ironically, there are monkeys all around the temple); and Tulasi Manas Temple. The Hanuman Temple was especially nice, and the "no photography" rule helped to keep the ambiance very sacred and focused. There were many there to sing and pray, and it was a deeply devotional place of worship (Hanuman being the deity of devotion).
On our way to the temples we enjoyed our first auto rickshaw accident. So common, it hardly phases the drivers or passersby... and most travelers have experienced a multitude of them. The rickshaws don't go very fast, so an accident isn't such a big deal to the rider, but the Tuk Tuks are generally quite beat up. The hierarchy of the road is: you can run over pedestrians if they are in the way; bicycles are second, and the pedestrians should watch out for bicycles veering to get away from scooters. Scooters are subservient to the tuk tuks, which are by far the most aggressive vehicles... And though they are extremely aware of their position as "above these "lesser" modes of transport", they seem to disregard the fact that they are NOT above higher vehicles. The cars are not as common as the other vehicles, and neither are buses, which are at the top of the "fuel" chain. This is a blessing, as the law says that if a vehicle lower on the hierarchy is in the way, there is no problem creaming it if it doesn't move for a bigger vehicle... Tuk Tuks are not exactly defensive drivers. There is, however, one level of the hierarchy in which every vehicle, bicycle, and pedestrian will diligently avoid.... The highest of the pyramid and King of the road.... The cow! Needless to say, we were fine. It was more amusing than anything.
Yesterday, we had planned a day trip but were foiled when we ended up spending the morning and early afternoon at the travel agent's office. We are not able to do our own train booking as you must be an Indian resident to do this. In some ways it's good as it gives jobs to Indians and makes the process much easier for us. The trains book up 2-4 weeks in advance, so it is good to plan ahead and book early, which is difficult to do when you want a spontaneous journey. The travel agents, however, get a certain number of emergency tickets which they can give to tourists after the train fills up, at an extra charge, of course. Our coming trip in a few weeks to Dharamsala will be a very long journey, and it took hours to sort out train times; ticket availability; and booking. We just kept breathing through it with as much patience as we could muster.
The afternoon we spent wandering through the back alleyways of the Main Ghat, looking at crafts; snacking on dosas; and finally locating the traveler famous "Blue Lassi"... Home of Varanassi's best Lassi. A Lassi is a blend of local made yogurt and fruit. These were extra special...chocolate, banana, coconut... Pomogranite and saffron on top. We went back last night for a second.... Don't tell anyone.
Today, we woke up at 5am, and hopped in a row boat with a sweet and honest man. He took us for a sunrise cruise on the Ganga. Varanassi was born again this morning, in all her rich glory. Bathers littered the ghats, doing their morning wash-up along with their pujas and prayers. Many began their days early with hours of clothes washing. A constant stream of chanting and singing could be heard as well as the laughter of young girls playing in the river. The ashes from the previous day and nights sacred burning of the bodies were pushed into a large pile, and then shoveled into the river... The last remains of the dreams, of the traveling pilgrims come to die in this Holy city.
The close up view of the river gave us the opportunity to see, touch and smell the extreme pollution of this sacred river. Trash, plastic, sewage, dead animals and dead bodies, all find their way to the stagnant waters of the lower Ganges. Here I had to muster the courage to touch it, while locals had no problems swimming, brushing their teeth, and even drinking it! Ack! Ben and I felt the tremendous amount of sorrow for the desecration of such an extraordinary gift of nature. We also felt immense gratitude for the beautiful, clean rivers of the north west... The blessing of living within such relatively preserved wildlife. Infinite gratitude for Mother Nature, may she return to balance and harmony.
This afternoon we went to Sarnath. Fifteen km away from Varanassi, It's the town where the first Buddha gave his very first sermon, and thus the birthplace of Buddhism. We stood in the place of that first sermon and felt the emanating of sweet energy. Inside the temple we sat for awhile, and it was such a peaceful reprieve from the loud, bustling city of Varanssi.
Tomorrow we leave Varanassi on a relatively short journey to Bodhgaya- only 4 hours away. This is the town where Buddha sat under the famous Bodhi tree to become enlightened. We will be there for a few days and then we start a two week permaculture course at a monastery. We will be working with some local community members of Bodhgaya to create a sustainable, no waste project using local and organic means.
Varanassi has been many things.... Rich and beautiful; intense and awful. I love it, I hate it.... Depends on where I am coming from. In the end... It's perfect.
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